We get a lot of questions about the relative merits and usefulness of dyebased and pigment inks for inkjet printers. The discussion has been mainly confined to Epson printers, although there is now an HP printer which uses pigment ink. (However, because HP has named both their dye and pigment inks Vivera, it can be hard to tell what you have.)
I’d like to share a post (with permission) from a Yahoo group I belong to. The group is called InkjetFabricPrinting, and a recent discussion was considering the best inks for quilt art. This reply from Steven J. Greenfield was so clear, I asked him if I could pass it on to you.
“Dye based inks (not to be confused with fabric dyes) will wash right out of untreated fabrics. Even a spot of water on it will cause a pale spot. Stick it in a washing machine, and you are lucky if you can see a ghost of the original image. You’ll probably still see the dark blacks if you used an HP or Canon, because most of their printers use dye colors but pigmented blacks.
That’s because dye inks are very water soluble, being color dyes held in solution. The pretreatment provides something for the dyes to soak into and then provide water resistance. When done this way, some excess dyes that didn’t soak into the pretreatment will wash out on the first wash. Or even if you get it wet, so it is a good idea to wash on gentle cycle after giving it a week to dry.
Dye inks printed in this way are -not- heat set. In fact, at least one person here has reported in tests that attempting to heat set inkjet dye or pigmented inks is bad, better to let it sit a week. Inkjet inks contain things such as glycols that keeps them from completely drying out quickly so that inkjet heads don’t constantly clog. They won’t feel wet, but they are slightly damp. Print onto a non-absorbant surface (I also run a Group for printing directly onto copper for acid etching) and you’ll see it takes a long time to get past being tacky.
Pigmented inks are more like paint, in that they are little chunks of pigment floating in a carrier liquid.
Pigmented inks don’t sink in as well, but how thick is fabric? They are not water soluble once dried, but they are subject to crocking (rubbing off) if not post treated with some kind of holder such as acrylic clear.
Same suggestions about no heat treatment, just let it sit a week.
In general, inkjet dye inks are good for things that must be washed such as clothing, where the life of the clothing itself makes the eventual fading of the dye inks moot. And pigmented inks are good for things that will rarely be washed because they are not worn, but which you wish to have a long, fade-resistant life, such as wall hangings, bed quilts, wall quilts, and decorative items.
If I were printing on fabric for something like a coat that won’t be washed much but will potentially be in the sun and rain, I think I’d choose pigmented ink with a post-treatment. Same with something like a tire cover or couch cover, where the slight stiffness of the post-treatment isn’t an issue. But for a shirt, I’d use pretreated fabric and dye inks.
Fabric dyes that are made to be used in inkjet printers and dye sublimation inks for inkjet printers are a whole ‘nother kettle of fish. Their behavior, heat treatments, and future life are determined by the type of fabric dye as some are for natural fibers and even then it depends on if it is cotton or silk. Whereas dye sub inkjet inks are only for polyester/polymer fabrics and require special pretreatments to be applied to anything else, and also must be heat set at a specific temp for a specific time. For those who don’t know, fabric dye inks for inkjets cannot simply be ironed to “heat set”. It is impossible to get them evenly set this way, you aren’t just drying them out. Some require dry heat from a press, some require specialized steamers.”
Here is a link to the group if you are interested: inkjetfabricprinting@yahoogroups.com

















