How does your process work?
We scan a photo into the computer, then size, crop, and enhance it with a photo-manipulation program. The photo is printed with an inkjet printer on fabric that has been pretreated chemically to make the ink permanent. The fabric is soaked in a chemical solution, then ironed dry and stabilized with freezer paper for printing. After it is printed, it is rinsed in the chemical solution again. Complete instructions are included with the kits and the chemical fixer.

How is your product different from BubbleJet 2000?
The fundamental concept, that of pretreating the fabric to make the image permanent, is the same. Because we use a solution and iron the fabric dry, it is not as messy and doesn't take as long as letting the fabric air dry. When we tested BJ200, we felt the quality of the image with our product was better, so we are sticking with it.

How long will the image last?
This is a new technology. We have been printing photos since 1996, and the early ones we printed are still clear and bright. We can't make any guarantees, just like fabric manufacturers don't, but you can expect that the image will last a reasonable length of time with care.

Can I use other fabrics to print on?
We recommend (and carry) 200-thread count cotton for a crisp image, and Kona Cotton for hand quilting, because we have had success with them. Other 200-thread-count fabrics may also give a crisp image. The inkjet inks are transparent, so if you use a print, solid color, or hand-dyed fabric, they will show through the image. See Colorado Ghost Town (on the Creative Ideas page)for an example of printing on a patterned fabric. We also carry Jacquard Silk fabric sheets, the only silk we have found that does not bleed, and their Extravorganza, which is a transparent silk organza.

Does the printer I use make a difference?
Based on testing I did for Quilter's Newsletter magazine, we recommend using pretreated fabrics and a printer with dyebased inks for quilts that will be washed, and a printer with pigment inks (pretreating does seem to improve the quality) for wallhangings that will be exposed to light. See the Test Report of Inket Fabric Sheets for the complete article and a CD with scans of the tests.

What is a good way to test for fastness?
We suggest printing three copies of an image. Keep one as a control, and cut the other two in half. Wash one half of one image with the method you intend to use, then compare it with the other half. Place one half of the other image in strong sunlight for a week or more to test for fade resistance. In our experience, dyebased prints will fade slightly in strong light.

How long can I keep the chemical?
We have kept unopened bottles of chemicals for six to nine months before using.
Don't try to reuse the solution the fabric is soaked in, since the fabric will have absorbed most of the chemical. I will sometimes keep the rinsing solution for a week or so if I know I will have a few more prints to fix, but it does lose it strength when it has been mixed with water.

How can I improve my print quality?
Starting with a good photograph is a big help. Although the photo manipulation programs can do wonders, a glossy photo with good color and contrast will make life easier to begin with. When you take your photos, make sure the image is clearly in focus. If the image on your screen looks too soft, try using "Sharpen" (sometimes called "Unsharp") in your photo-manipulation program to sharpen it. If you need a good program, we recommend Adobe Photoshop Elements v.2 or higher.

The next thing you need is a good printer. (We have used dye-based and pigment ink Epson printers, Canon, and HP printers.) Make a lot of paper prints until you are happy with the image, changing both printer controls and the image itself in your photo program. The print on the fabric will always look a little softer than on paper, just because of the texture of the weave. We usually scan at 300 dpi and print at 720 dpi. We've found that a higher print resolution often deposits too much ink, and the print will bleed.

Will printing fabric hurt the printer?
We have had little problem with fabric jamming with our Epson printers. You do need to be sure that the fabric is firmly ironed to the freezer paper. There may be more potential for problems with printers that have a curved paper path rather than a flat one, such as the HP. We carry a heavy-duty freezer paper that can help solve that problem. If you have an expensive printer (or a nervous significant other) and you enjoy the technique, you may want to invest in a printer just for fabric prints. The current Epson printer that is comparable to our workhorse is only $89 at discount stores.

What can I do if the fabric sheets keep jamming in the printer?
We've found that an extra ironing step will help prevent jamming. Just before using the fabric sheet, iron it again. From the paper side of the sheet, lift up one end and run the iron across the edge of the other end to form a little crease in the paper for the last 1/2" or so. Turn the sheet around and do this at the other end, as well. This technique will keep the ends of the fabric sheet from curling, which contributes to them getting caught in the printer. Also, if your printer has an envelope or card stock setting, be sure to use that for your printing.